2023-07-28: Lyon Mountain

Lyon Mountain, Clinton County highpoint. Elevation 3832'. Solo ascent via Lyon Mountain Trail. 8.06 mi, 1969' gain, 2h55m RT. NY county highpoints 16/62.

Weather and scheduling have repeatedly stymied plans to hike in the Adirondacks this summer and the last weekend in July was no exception. At long last I had a window where the weather seemed clear, my car worked well, and I could squeeze enough time into my schedule for an attempt on the Santanoni Range in the southern High Peaks.

Original plans called for leaving the night before and sleeping in my car since the forecast called for rain all night. However, repeated setbacks prevented this so I changed plans to wake up at 4 AM and drive up there the morning of. I hoped to be off the mountain by at least two in the afternoon to visit family that night which meant a proper alpine start was essential.

I changed plans too late in the evening to get sufficient sleep and as soon as I headed out the next morning I could tell something was wrong. I made it as far as the rest area in Clifton Park, about a third of the way there, before pulling off to rest for a few minutes. I woke up an hour and a half later and realized that the Santanoni Range was no longer in the cards. I drove up the Northway for an hour considering my options, including just bailing altogether, but eventually my sights settled on Lyon Mountain. I picked up supplies and did some cursory research at a gas station and then kept driving north.

Lyon Mountain caught my attention over four years ago while browsing topographical maps while bored at work. Far in the North Country of New York, in the flat country beyond the Adirondacks, this peak rises prominently from the plains between Lake Champlain and the Saint Lawrence River to tower over the Chazy Highlands. Home to a fire tower - one open to the public at that - and expansive views, I always figured it would be one of the last country highpoints due to its distance and proximity to the far more appealing High Peaks region.

I drove up the very badly washed-out access road to the trailhead not knowing exactly what to expect. The peak was trailed which meant getting lost wouldn't be too much of a concern but beyond that I went in more or less blind. The trail started somewhat flat, incline was limited and nearly unnoticeable and there were a few areas of descent as well. I only passed two other groups on the way up. The forests here were extraordinary and already well worth the drive and hike. Everywhere I looked was forest that would be considered excessively beautiful even in the Catskills or Adirondacks, and it just kept going in every direction.

Spruce/birch forest on the way up, among the most beautiful I've hiked.

Soon I arrived at what I thought was the summit, emerging from the trees into a clearing with the fire tower at its center. The remarkably flat summit plateau is very rocky and home to spruce/fir forest rarely exceeding twenty feet in height. I stopped at an east-facing overlook beyond the tower for some contingency pictures and took some selfies at the highest ground I could see.

Johnson Mountain rises to the east over distant plains obscured by humidity.

A view of the fire tower above the trees. Note the dry, rocky summit environment.

I began to climb the fire tower cautiously. There were pretty high winds, high enough to mess up my hair, and I knew that other fire towers (notably Balsam Lake in the Catskills) can be very shaky and feel very unsafe in high-wind environments. Much to my surprise, however, the Lyon Mountain tower had no discernible movement except at the strongest gusts.

Ellenburg Mountain (L) guards the north shore of Chazy Lake.

An aerial view of the flat and monotonous summit area. This is an area I wouldn't want to get lost in.

In the hazy distance the northern foothills of the Adirondacks rise above the flat forested plains of the North Country.

Close-up of a farm on the north shore of Chazy Lake. This area of New York benefits from fertile sediments laid down by the Saint Lawrence River to the north.

I spent some time at the top of the fire tower taking pictures. Fire towers always seem so unstable to me and even with the lack of motion in the wind, I wanted to spend as little time up there as possible. However, I also wanted to enjoy the view, so I stayed for at least five minutes. On descent from the tower I noticed that an area to the west seemed to be slightly higher than the ground here, which meant of course that I would have to head out there to check it out. Maybe I would end up getting lost up there after all.

Another look at Ellenburg Mountain and the north side of Chazy Lake.

The limb of Lyon Mountain, covered in green wilderness, extends out towards the flatter landscape below.

A view of a swamp four miles to the north of the summit, on the lower slopes of Topknot Mountain.

A humid view of a large wind farm fifteen miles northeast in Jericho.

After consulting some maps on my phone I found that the true summit was indeed farther west and that a trail appeared to head in that direction. I think the trail was official as there were manmade water and swamp crossings typical of DEC trails. However it was difficult to follow and probably sees very little use only from pedantic highpointers like myself. This trail led to an old overgrown road, probably once used to maintain and supply the fire tower. At the south end of the road was a cairn marking the highpoint. A few trails continued into the woods from here but didn't seem to go anywhere.

A path of fine dirt twists through the lush forest floor, carpeted in green moss.

Spruce/fir forest were the old road cuts across the summit.

Lyon Mountain, Clinton County highpoint. Elevation 3832'. NY county highpoints 16/62.

I had a small lunch at the true summit and then began my descent. Descent was quick but enjoyable. I was able to give trail conditions to a group about two miles below the summit and talked to them for a bit. I also came up with a number of interesting story and sermon ideas; I often find that hiking and descents specifically really help my creative side shine, something I don't see on bushwhack hikes since I'm usually more preoccupied with not getting lost.

A small Cortinatius mushroom emerges from a mossy rock.

A limited view of Chazy Lake from a spot where the trail intersects a now-disused, more direct older path.

A mature Amanita jacksonii fruiting along the trail. Late summer forests host a number of diverse mushrooms which add interesting colors and scents to the forest.

Rapids on an unnamed creek crossed twice near the trailhead.

I made it back to the car before two in the afternoon, plenty of time to spend time with family that night after a very enjoyable, if unexpected, hike.